Tuesday, January 11, 2011

my SE Asia trip on a shoestring

Quick overview:
After Napal came back to India, straight to New Delhi, where was met by my friend. We spend some great time at his house near the city and there was no doubt that i'd return to him. This time he had students over, hours of mutual inspiration and creativity and of course a lot of cooking.

We tried to extend my Indian visa, but this time Jugad (Indian "there is every time a way") didn't work and I moved on to Thailand.

Arrived in Bangkok, found a dorm, met people, met a Thai artist, who took me to an island where I helped him to make a ground for the Music and Art festival. Heat, cold beer, semi vegetarian food, motorbikes, sharp curves, sea, jamming, creating, selling handicraft, being in love, dancing, inspiring.

Time was to go. Visa limit is not really fun. Grabbed my belongings in Bangkok, took a night bus to Laos. At the bus station met a boy. My seat next to the window was occupied, the conductor didn't want to change it, the lady which occupied my seat smiled and at the end of the trip stole the bus blanket. I didn't like her till the end..

Reached Ubon Rachathani. Had to pay a fine (500 baht) for one extra day of my stay. Yet haven't learnt how to count..  Was stressed. Lao visa was for free, that pleased me. At the border they issued the visa and asked for some Thai money, in return they gave and exchange in Laos Kips, the rate was absent, they just gave couple bills which were enough to visit a restroom at the bus station.

I reached the town, waited till all the Songteuos (local transport) were gone and asked a nearby party of how and where to go. They recommended the price and named me another bus station which will take me further into the country.

Everyone went to Pakxe, so did I. There I was given an information that it is rather expensive, had to chose another option. Talked to French boys and decided to follow them to 4 thousand islands. Had a long interesting conversation with a German monk along the whole trip. One beg under our feet was moving.. My vegetarian soul whipped. Shared with this German guy a bungalow for 3 day, slept outside in the hammock,  with a view to the river Mekong. Full moon, silence and fresh air.

Moved towards Pakxe. Was given a ride across the river by Thai tourists. The boat boy charged me less.. Tried to hitchhike, but there were only taxes. One had a paper in front, containing the passengers' names. They were russian, but the bus was empty. Thought to try my luck and ask if the are so nice to give me a lift, but neither wanted to wait, nor to fail. Had to walk. One boy gave me a lift to the main road. Then again had to walk. Then was almost exhausted and when one more taxi driver offered me a ride, said yes, but bargained hard. Yet deserved to have a better price as walking in the heated and dusty south of Laos is not much fun.

The driver was sweet, picked some tourists from Airport, chatted with me easily but yet not overdoing. Shared with me some local vegetables, taught me how to recognize them and what  price to pay. I had some bananas with me, but he refused them. It was interesting with what purpose he did so, either because there are really too many bananas as he said, or he just kindly helped a traveler.

Dropped me off at the Sabaidi guest house, where there was a dormitory. There i stayed till 31 December. Money were spent, and there was none to pay for the bed and while waiting for the transaction I sold some of my handicraft, some exchanged for the food. But the main thing was that i met one wonderful woman Cathrine, 78 y.o. who became my friend and with whom we spent some days together, wondered around temples, met her 79th year, traveled to waterfalls, hitchhiked on motorbikes, celebrated New Year and just had a grand time!

The story about my monthly income was pretty unexpected. Girl, who supposed to send me them didn't do it till the last moment, till 30 December. Hence at this day all the banks, meaning Western Union were closing at 3p.m. Money were sent, but not yet delivered to me. New Year was coming, the bill for the dorm had to be paid and i had to eat.. The situation was resolved by a very unexpected turn of my luck. I went to the cyber cafe and spent my last dollar on the hour of the on-line. Checked up with the "money" girl, they were sent, but the time was after 3p.m. and there was no banks open for the next 3 days. Thus i decided to check the balance on my bank of america card. There was nothing, but i still went to their website to see this fact again.  HERE WERE money! 100 some dollars! I was rich:) From a billing address I learned that they were the "Tax back" from my US working times (2 years prior). What a surprise, what a relief!

Then all the way to the north. Several days of hitchhiking, visiting the Kong Lor  cave, learning digits in Lao, surprising locals, befriending travelers, sharing good vibes with kids and finally coming to a Viet Nam border. Somewhere on the way I had an interesting situation. Like always was dropped somewhere on the way, walked along the road. The sun was still up, approximately 3 hours before down, the temperature was as always high and comfortable, trees along the road, villages and of course local dwellers. Passing one of the villages I was noticed by the local kids, which were probably going from the school to the other village. They laughed, shyly hiding at each other's back when i looked at them, saying some separate words in English they knew and making me an adorable company for the next half kilometer. There was one old woman among them and she was excited about communication with me not less then kids. When children turned from the main road into the side path, yelled "Bye" to me,she remained with me.

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